Tom
Well, one of the first things we discovered when we awoke was the challenge of six aging adults with differing morning routines coping with one bathroom. But, we all managed to start the day in time for our meet up with our guide Randy Pearcey. Randy grew up in St. John’s, one of three sons in a fishing family. They lived a hardscrabble life relying on the cod for their livelihood. Randy admitted that history never interested him in his youth, but fascinates him now. He certainly was a fast talking fount of information!
Randy took us along The Battery, the place where he grew up and where our B&B is located. For over two hours he regaled us with stories of his growing up in a fishing family, his exploits as a child entrepreneur, and his prowess in hockey. He played for national teams, became a PE teacher, and eventually owned two rinks where he coached Canadian and international students, some of whom became NHL stars.
The walk along The Battery provided us a glimpse of the harsh conditions and economic trials of living close to the sea on an unforgiving rock. We were unaware of the importance of St. John’s to commerce, aviation, international communication, and its part in the Titanic’s demise. Especially of import was the preparation for WWII when the USA came in 1940. Family fishing platforms and docks were replaced with concrete piers to accommodate large naval vessels for supplying the war effort that was looming. Because of its close proximity to Europe and its deep harbor, St. John’s was ideal for moving provisions, materiel, and troops overseas, even though German U-boats lurked outside the harbor.
St. John’s has become a tourist’s destination, and The Battery is now mostly B&B townhouses with few actual citizens in residence. The locals are upset by the many outside investors eager to swallow up the local real estate. The influx of tourists was evident as we walked the streets later in the afternoon after our 2 1/2 hour tour up and down the steep hills with Randy. And parking is a nightmare to find!
Our memorable fish ‘n’ chips lunch was eaten at The Duke of Duckworth, the location where the bar was featured in the TV show THE REPUBLIC OF DOYLE. It was recommended as one of the few places for good fish ‘n’ chips, and we were not disappointed!
Dinner at the Blue on Water bistro was short on menu selection, but long on wine choices. That was okay as we had not recovered from our enjoyable lunch. Tired from our long day which included more walking than any of us are used to, we were all early to bed to rest up for another day of discovery.
Tom, You should be a travel writer!